Datorita lipsei de timp (nu am momentan timp sa traduc comentariile facut pt. group build in limba romana) o sa anexez textul in limba engleza.
Sper sa nu ofensez pe nimeni.
"Isamu Sasakis Ki-84
The skeleton is pain in the
Gluing all the parts together is very difficult but the worst thing is when you discover that on one crossing a part is not in its place. You can not detach the part because the part will be broken and whole structure will be bend, which will generate another set of problems when you are trying to glue the rest of the components.
Anyway, after gluing (with a cianoacrylate glue) all the parts I have discovered that the structure is too big to enter the fuselage.
Sanding seemed the right way so I used a Dremel machine at low speed. It worked fine until head got stocked on a rib and broke several elements. After gluing the parts I have sanded the piece by hand but still broke some parts several times until it was small enough to enter the fuselage.
The oxygen tube has scratchbuild from a sprue, gauge made from a decal paper. I have decided in the last moment to add the oxygen tube because it will add a colour spot in a place where noting will draw the eye.
Furthermore I have added wires and pipelines from copper wires.
Inside the cockpit I used a Eduard zoom set (partially) only where I thought that the photoetched parts are looking better than the original. I must say that Hasegawa has done a beautiful job on this cockpit.
Unfortunately this plane has two radio stations!!!
The original (Japanese) radio station was installed between the legs of the pilot under gauges. After the war, the only remaining plane of this type, was fitted with an American radio station on the right side of the cockpit. Hasegawa chose to mould the model with this radio station and not with the original one.
Normally I had to erase the American radio station but I thought that I will add more interest to the cockpit in a area visible through side and also through cockpit.
I added levers, wires and cables (from the pedals to the aft part of the fuselage).
A set of wires and cables is going from the gauges through the fire wall and reaches the engine.
My favourite is the small lever installed on the right side of the aiming device who is catching my eye all the time.
The seat was scratched with a needle, then putty was used in order to give some dimension to the leather cushion. This was followed by different layers of paint. Base paint enamel leather, dark wash oil paint terra ombra bruciatta, drybrush enamel leather + 15% light gray, drybrush enamel light gray with a drop of green and finaly I have coated everything with a transparent matt to obtain a finish similar to leather.
I used the seat belts from Eduard painted and drybrushed (iron aluminium, green gray) which seemed to be the most appropriate colours to the real ones. Transparent matt was used again for the finish of the textile.
The whole cockpit was painted, washed (with different colours), drybrushed and then drybrushed again with different shades of colours, in order to add depth and the look of a used thing.
Aotake colour from inside the cockpit was drybrushed with aluminium.
The left side of the cockpit made only from a photoetched part was also transformed with the use of the Eduard set. A lever for opening the canopy and a wheel was replaced with new (more detailed) parts.
After painting all the parts I have realised that the two tubes that are covering the machineguns are too small and the place between the engine and the cockpit is not accurately design by Hasegawa so I had to scratchbuild the tubes and a floor that was enabling me to fix all the parts together (cockpit, oil tank, fire wall
).
Tubes were painted in black and drybrushed with rust.
The engine was painted in iron, washed with blue (aquarela paints) then drybrushed with aluminium. Finally electrical cables were added with help of thin copper wire. I painted the wires in dark blue in order to give some colour to this area.
I hope you like it. For me it is the best cockpit I have made until now. "
Christian
curec_christian 
. Trebuie sa folosesti setul de trei sau patru "pile" speciale pentru ungii. Initial indepartezi "gorsul" cu hirtie abraziva de 500 - 600, apoi pilesti manual cu pila nr 1 (alb) pina la uniformizarea suprafetei, apoi treci la pila nr 2 (verzui)si in final la nr.3 (albastru), cind piesa apare deja foarte transparenta. O baie in Future desavirseste munca!
Ajutor
Sus